West African Bichir Care Guide - Aquarium Setup, Diet & Breeding

The West African Bichir is an ancient-looking freshwater predator with an elongated, cylindrical body and a row of separate, sail-like dorsal finlets. Its brownish to olive-grey colouring helps it blend into shaded river margins, while the pale underside and mottled pattern provide further camouflage against mud, leaf litter and submerged roots.

Like other bichirs, this species has a distinctive serpentine appearance and a pair of sturdy pectoral fins that allow it to manoeuvre across the bottom. It also has primitive lungs and can breathe atmospheric air, an adaptation that helps it survive in warm, stagnant or poorly oxygenated waters.

West African Bichirs are mainly nocturnal and spend much of the day resting among cover before becoming more active after dark. They are deliberate rather than fast-moving fish, but they are efficient ambush predators capable of swallowing surprisingly large prey.

In nature, this bichir inhabits quiet backwaters, flooded margins and swampy forest waterways where submerged vegetation, branches and soft sediments create plenty of hiding places. Its unusual appearance and prehistoric lineage make it a particularly distinctive choice for experienced keepers of large predatory aquariums.

West African Bichirs are native to freshwater habitats in West Africa, particularly the forested river systems and floodplain environments of countries including Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Côte d’Ivoire. Their exact recorded distribution is somewhat fragmented, and they are associated with slow-moving, heavily vegetated waters rather than open, fast-flowing channels.

A single adult should have at least 300 litres, with a recommended footprint of around 120 by 50 cm; larger aquariums are preferable as the fish grows. Use a soft sand substrate or smooth, rounded gravel, together with caves, robust plants, driftwood and other shaded retreats. Leave open areas for bottom-level movement, while ensuring every decoration is stable and cannot collapse. The aquarium must have a tightly fitting cover because bichirs are powerful escape artists, but leave access to the surface for air breathing. Maintain warm water around 24–28°C with a pH of approximately 6.0–7.5, gentle circulation and good filtration.

Up to 34 cm (13.4 inches) in total length. Females may become slightly longer and heavier than males, although individual size varies.

West African Bichirs are carnivores and should be offered a varied diet of meaty foods. Suitable choices include earthworms, prawns, mussels, pieces of fish, bloodworm and high-quality sinking carnivore pellets. Feed appropriately sized portions, preferably around their active period in the evening, and remove uneaten food promptly. Feeder fish are unnecessary and can introduce disease or provide poor nutrition.

Suitable companions include peaceful, robust fish that are too large to be swallowed, such as large barbs, Congo Tetras, medium-to-large characins, appropriately sized Synodontis catfish and other peaceful bichirs. Avoid small fish, shrimp and ornamental snails, which will be treated as food, along with aggressive cichlids, fin-nippers and highly territorial bottom dwellers. West African Bichirs should not be housed with fish that harass them or compete aggressively for food.

West African Bichirs are rarely bred in home aquariums, but reproduction is possible with mature, well-conditioned adults. A spacious breeding aquarium with soft, slightly acidic to neutral water, dense cover and a seasonal change in temperature and water conditions can encourage spawning. The pair scatters eggs among fine-leaved plants or a spawning mop, with the male receiving and fertilising them using his broad anal and caudal fins. The eggs and fry should be separated from the adults, as both eggs and young can be eaten. Newly hatched fry require very small live foods and excellent water quality.

Males usually have a broader, thicker anal fin, which is used during spawning, while females generally develop a fuller abdomen and may grow slightly larger overall. These differences are most reliable in mature fish and can be difficult to judge in juveniles.